EMRTCentury. Quite a feat, especially when you take into account that alterity is every inch a relationship, not a thing in itself, and is in this case an actively mediated colonial relationship meeting contradictory and conflicting European expectations of what constitutes Indianness. What is more, much more, this particular colonial history is profoundly gendered; it is the Cuna women, not the men, who bear the mark of tradition-the nose-rings, the vivid and strikingly beautiful appliqued mola blouses and head coverings. In the visual scheme of things it is not the men but the Indian wom